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13 Aug 2022

Our Trips

Yellowstone or Bust

car

Road Trip Thru Wyoming

May 15-16-17, 2011
Yellowstone or Bust / Trek to NE Entrance
DAY 1 | DAY 2 | DAY 2(2) | DAY 2(3) | DAY 3

When you’re hot on the trail to Yellowstone National Park, you don’t go home just because they won’t let you in.

Pallet of soft green, offset by deep red earth.

Our trek to the Northeast Entrance of Yellowstone took us through breathtakingly beautiful country.

We had been merrily on our way to Yellowstone, but were stopped dead in our tracks. The East Entrance to the park was closed due to four significant snow slides blocking the road at Sylvan Pass. We had come too far and were too close to give up and go home without seeing Yellowstone. So we decided to try the next nearest entrance—Northeast Entrance—which was at the park’s far northwest corner.

Map of Yellowstone.TRAVEL TIP: Yellowstone has five entrances. Only the North Entrance, near Mammoth Hot Springs, is open year-round. The other four entrances are open depending on weather, road, and other conditions. Do yourself a favor and call the park the day before you arrive to make sure the entrance you want to use is open. Otherwise, like us, you’ll be looking for an alternate way into the park. Also check for road closures or delays within the park. Yellowstone is in the mountains, and anything is possible.
Heading north by northwest on Highway 120 . . . to Yellowstone's Northeast Entrance.

Heading north by northwest on Highway 120 . . . to Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance.

. . . Road Trip thru Wyoming . . .
May 15-16-17, 2011

Day Two (cont’d): Yellowstone or Bust / Trek to NE Entrance

Day Two (cont'd): Route 2 from Cody to Yellowstone's NE Entrance - 80.5 milesMonday, May 16, 2011 . . . After being thwarted at the East Entrance, we returned to Cody . . . and headed northwest on Highway 120 (Belfry Highway) . . . to the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (Highway 296) . . . to Highway 212 north . . . through the small towns of Coulter Pass, Cooke City, and Silver Gate in Montana . . . to Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance.

Travel time (Route 2: Cody to Yellowstone’s NE Entrance, not including stops for photos) – 80.5 miles, 1 hour 48 minutes

Travel time, thus far, for the day (including Route 1): 184.5 miles, 3 hours 41 minutes

Highway 120 (Belfry Highway) is the only road you can take from Cody that goes to Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance. It zigzags northwest out of town and is hard to follow at first, but once it crosses the Shoshone River and you find yourself outside the city limits, there’s nothing but rolling grassland, vast open range, and mountain views.

Turn-off for Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is just around the bend.

Turn-off for Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is just around the bend.

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway

The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (Highway 296) is highly regarded as one of the most scenic drives in Wyoming. It’s about 17 miles north of Cody and extends 47 miles northwest—from Highway 120 to the Beartooth Highway (Route 212)—linking Cody with Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance.

Snow-capped mountains loom large in the distance.

Snow-capped mountains loom large in the distance.

CHIEF JOSEPH by Paul Shafranski, pen and ink, 2013.

“Chief Joseph” by Paul Shafranski, pen and ink, 2013.”

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is named for Chief Joseph, leader of the Wallowa band of Nez Perce, a Native American tribe indigenous to the Wallowa Valley in northeast Oregon. The Byway follows a portion of the route taken by Chief Joseph as he led the Nez Perce from Oregon to Montana during an epic attempt to flee the U.S. Cavalry in 1877.

Two Dot Ranch

The first eight miles of the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway run through a section of historical Two Dot Ranch. The area is unfenced and designated open range. Cattle dot the landscape and are free to graze wherever they want. It’s not unusual to find them near the road so extra care is needed around the many turns.

Cattle on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. (Photo: Knight Adventures)

Cattle on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. (Photo: Knight Adventures)

Cowboys rounding up cattle on Two Dot Ranch land. (Photo: Wyoming Tourism)We didn’t see it, but wish we had
With cattle roaming free on Two Dot Ranch’s open range, from time-to-time cowboys on horses to round up the livestock and take them home. Unless you have inside info, a cattle drive is not something you can plan to see while on vacation. But if you’re in the right place at the right time, it’s a traffic-stopping experience and definite photo op.

Scenery on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is spectacular.

Around the turn, a Chugwater Formation comes into view.

Around the turn, a Chugwater Formation comes into view.

The Chugwater Formation is stunning against a soft pallet of green and the cool hues of the landscape.

A closer view—that same deep red rock formation is stunning against a soft pallet of green
and the cool hues of the landscape.

Chugwater Formations along the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway are massive.

The red rock contrasts dramatically with the greenery.
Rugged red rock is juxtaposed against a sea of green velvet.

The rich brick-red of the Chugwater Formations is offset by every imaginable shade of green—emerald grass, silvery sagebrush, forest green shrubbery—against the dark mountains and soft blue skies. They contrast dramatically with the greenery around them . . . and are ancient. They date back to before the Jurassic period of dinosaurs 250 million years ago.

Around the turn, a ChugwaterThe Chugwater Formations are red because of oxidation of iron minerals within the rock.

The Chugwater Formations are composed primarily of siltstones and durable, fine sandstones containing few fossils. They are red because of oxidation of iron minerals within the rock.

To the east, Heart Mountain is visible in the hazy distance (about 43 miles away).

To the east, Heart Mountain is visible in the hazy distance (about 43 miles away).

Rolling foothills of the Absaroka Mountains.

Rolling foothills, as far as the eye can see, disappear into the horizon.

Dead Indian Pass

From Two Dot, you enter Shoshone National Forest and start winding your way up Dead Indian Hill. It’s a slow, gradual climb. Elevation at the summit is 8,673.

Chief Joseph Scenic Highway . . . is widely considered to pass through one of the most scenic areas in Wyoming . . . the view from the top of Dead Indian Hill is widely considered by geoscientists to be one of the great geologic panoramas in the West. —Roadside Geology of Yellowstone Country

Dead Indian Summit Overlook, a paved turnout at the high point of the Byway, provided a perfect place to stop. View from the overlook, wow. Just wow.

View from Dead Indian Overlook with the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway and its switchbacks.

View from Dead Indian Overlook.

It’s hard to capture it all in a photo without a wide lens the size of China.

North Abaroska Wilderness to the south. It is one of the wildest and most pristine areas in America, accessible only on foot or horseback. The Byway follows the route Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce took when fleeing the U.S. Cavalry in 1877. The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is paved, but there are no street lights and, at times, no guard rails.

What you’re looking at is the North Absaroka Wilderness to the south, Dead Indian Creek below, Sunlight Basin, the volcanic Absaroka Range of the mighty Rockies beyond, Clarks Fork Canyon, with Gallatin National Forest and the granite Beartooth Mountains to the north. It’s a pristine, rugged, remote, wild landscape with majestic snow-capped peaks stretching into the distant horizon in all directions, plunging canyons, and deep valleys disappearing around forested ridges and slopes.

It is beyond awesome.

Something magical happens when you’re standing on that overlook staring out at the vast Wyoming wilderness and towering mountains beyond. You feel small, insignificant, fully aware of the silence, and utterly at one with nature. It tugs gently, pulling you into the landscape and history of this very special, sacred place.

A stone marker commemorates the historical significance of Dead Indian Pass.

Stone marker at Dean Indian Summit Overlook.

Stone marker at Dean Indian Summit Overlook.

The inscription on the stone marker reads:

Dead Indian Hill Summit, altitude 8,000 feet.
This pass is the summit of Dead Indian Hill. Through this portal great herds of wild game seasonally migrated from the mountains to the plains. This high pass was the gate way for countless Indian hunting and war parties, and through this portal Chief Joseph, in 1877, led his Nez Perce Indians in a strategic and defensive retreat, pursued by U.S. Army soldiers. Over this one and only opening of the valleys to the west traveled a vast army of miners to seek the wealth of Cooke City. And down this steep hill the early settlers of Sunlight Basin braved its dangers. The first road improvement was made possible in 1909, by dwellers of Sunlight Valley whose names are here inscribed . . .
Dead Indian Hill was the last mountain the Nez Perce needed to cross before reaching Canada.
Dead Indian Pass is where the Nez Perce succeeded in shaking their pursuers.

More signs at the overlook explain the 1877 escape over this pass by Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce. I can only imagine their desperation and determination as they traveled through the mountains and wilderness in their epic attempt to flee from the U.S. Cavalry.

The Flight of the Nez Perce

Nez Perce Trail from Oregon to Montana. (Photo: Old West Trail Country)

Nez Perce Trail

In 1877, the Nez Perce were forced off their native land in Oregon by the U.S. government. Refusing to sign a treaty to settle on a reservation, Chief Joseph and his band of Nez Perce set off for Canada with the U.S. Cavalry in hot pursuit. For over three months, the Nez Perce outmaneuvered and battled their pursuers, traveling 1,170 miles—across Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Wyoming, and into Montana—with the ultimate hope of reaching asylum with Sioux Chief Sitting Bull in Canada. They fled through Yellowstone and over what is now the byway named in Chief Joseph’s honor. At Dead Indian Pass, they managed a successful escape north into Montana. On October 5, 1877, however, after a devastating five-day battle during freezing weather conditions—with no food or blankets and the major war leaders dead—Chief Joseph formally surrendered in the Bear Paw Mountains of the Montana Territory—just 40 miles short of the Canadian border and freedom. Read more

Dead Indian Pass is where the Nez Perce almost succeeded in shaking their pursuers.

At the summit of Dead Indian Hill. (Photo: Ladybug's Lair)

At the north end of the parking area on Dead Indian Summit are two metal sculptures of a Native American man and woman on horses. (Photo: Ladybug’s Lair)

Rugged rock and a plunging cliff at Dead Indian Summit Overlook.

Rugged rock and a plunging cliff at Dead Indian Summit Overlook.

View from Chief Joseph Scenic Byway of Clarks Fork Canyon and Beartooth Plateau. (Photo: Dan Zachariah)We missed it, but it’s worth seeing
A bit farther up the road is another scenic overlook. This one is easy to miss if you don’t see the “Point of Interest” sign. Just past a bend in the road, the wide vista comes into view with a small pullout where you can park and look out at Clarks Fork Canyon, with its vertical 2,000-foot cliffs, and the Beartooth Plateau.

Descending from Dead Indian Pass, you encounter the series of switchbacks seen from the overlook. Navigating the switchbacks can be tricky. The road is paved, but there are no street lights and, at times, no guard rails. Winding your way through the mountain is slow-going.

Descending from Dead Indian Pass on our way west to Yellowstone.

Descending from Dead Indian Pass on our way west to Yellowstone.

Campers might want to know . . .
Dead Indian Campground. (Photo: Brett DeWoody)Dead Indian Campground is located in Sunlight Basin at the bottom of one of the switchbacks on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Campsites flank Dead Indian Creek, offering soothing water sounds, and a trailhead leads right into the North Absaroka Wilderness. There are other campgrounds along the Byway, and still more can be found on the many gravel side roads that lead deeper into the National Forest. Be aware—this wilderness is a remote, rugged, wild place with thriving populations of grizzly bears, black bears, mountains lions, and wolves. Take care. Take bear spray and practice safe food storage. Read more

Sunlight Basin

Sunlight Bridge is eight miles west of the campground. It is a simple one-span concrete beam bridge that crosses an immense gorge so narrow and deep, sunlight rarely reaches the creek below. At 285 feet, the bridge is the highest in Wyoming.

It is a steep vertical drop from Sunlight Bridge into the gorge below. (Photo: Wyoming Tourism)

It is a steep vertical drop from Sunlight Bridge into the gorge below. (Photo: Wyoming Tourism)

Sunlight Creek at the bottom of the gorge. (Photo: Chris Sanfino)We missed it, but it’s worth seeing
You can’t miss Sunlight Bridge; you come around the bend and there it is. But you might fail to realize—like we did—that you’re driving over something spectacular. It’s worth a stop. There are parking lots and walkways on both sides of the bridge allowing for some dizzying views of Sunlight Creek.

Because Sunlight Basin is so remote, it’s been said the only thing that can get into the valley most of the year is sunlight . . . hence the name.

Rolling emerald foothills near Antelope Mountain.

Rolling emerald foothills near Antelope Mountain.

Cathedral Cliffs along Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.

Cathedral Cliffs along Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.

Swamp Lake Botanical Area. (Photo: Jon Vermilye)We missed it, but it’s worth seeing
Swamp Lake Botanical Area lies nestled at the base of Cathedral Cliffs. It’s a rich wildlife habitat and wetland composed of fine-textured sediments (marl), floating vegetation mats, a large number of regionally rare plant species, shallow water with emergent vegetation, and open water for fishing.

Continuing west, the Byway follows the Clarks Fork River. Clarks Fork is a tributary of the Yellowstone and named for Clark of the famous Lewis and Clark duo. It’s wild and scenic, surrounded by forestland, the kind of river bears love—full of brook trout, rainbow trout, and Yellowstone Cutthroat trout—but we didn’t see any bears or other wildlife the entire time we were on the Byway.

Clarks Fork River near Painter Outpost. (Photo: Elfino 57)

Clarks Fork River near Painter Outpost. (Photo: Elfino 57)

Chief Joseph Scenic Biway sign. (Photo: Omnibus)Do not miss this scenic driveFive stars
When all was said and done, I was glad the East Entrance to Yellowstone had been closed and we had no choice but to take the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. We might never have experienced it otherwise. If you are ever in the area, do not miss it. It is a must-see. Highly recommended.

Near the junction for Beartooth Highway (US 212), snow-covered Pilot and Index Peaks dominate the view.

Pilot and Index Peak in the Beartooth Mountains.

Pilot and Index Peak in the Beartooth Mountains.

Beartooth Scenic Byway. (Photo: Sebwite)We missed it, but it’s worth seeing
The Beartooth Scenic Byway is the section of US Route 212 between Red Lodge and Cooke City. It traces a series of steep zigzags and switchbacks, along the Montana-Wyoming border, to the 10,947-foot high Beartooth Pass. Worth seeing.
Photo: Sebwite, Wikipedia.

Snow . . . the higher you go, the deeper it gets.

Snow . . . the higher you go, the deeper it gets.

At an elevation of 8,200 feet, Colter Pass, just east of Cooke City, has snow from November through May with an average snowfall of 500 inches a year. They say “only the hearty can live year round on the Pass.” Yep.

Cooke City

Cooke City is an old mining town about four miles east of Yellowstone. Nestled deep in the Beartooth Mountains surrounded by forestland, it feels remote and isolated.

Cooke City’s history dates back to 1874 when gold was first discovered there. The area became known as the New World Mining District. The town, then called ‘Shoo-Fly,’ was renamed Cooke City in 1880 to honor Jay Cooke, a major mining investor and chief promoter. Today, old miner cabins, collapsing adits and decaying mining structures, and the remains of hopeful mining claims sit silent on the northern mountain range.

We stopped to get gas and stretch our legs. Piles of snow, plowed to the side of the road, were as high as a grown man in some places. The air was crisp and clean, but not cold.

Metal sculpture of miner at Cooke City Visitor's Center.

Metal sculpture of miner at the
Cooke City Visitor’s Center.

Cooke City, MT . . . our last stop before Yellowstone.

Cooke City, MT . . . our last stop before Yellowstone.

At the Cooke City Exxon, you can get gas and rent a snowmobile.
Cooke City Store is an historical little store straight out of the 1800's.
Burgers, pizza, and Moose Drool on tap are popular at Miners Saloon.
Cooke City has a definite western flavor and is small—just ten square miles—with only 100 full-time residents and about 300 more who come during the summer months.

It’s a great place to get gas . . . gifts and souvenirs . . . burgers, pizza, and Moose Drool on tap.

The town caters mostly to tourists. There are motels, restaurants, and bars along the road, a couple of gas stations, a general store, gift shops, and other seasonal businesses. Everything to do in the area involves the great outdoors—hiking, boating, fishing, hunting, mountain bike riding, horseback riding, ATV and snowmobile rentals, skiing, snowboarding, etc.

Soda Butte Lodge has food, drinks, and live poker.

Soda Butte Lodge has food, drinks, and live poker table . . . just like the wild, wild west.

You can count on meeting bears, moose, and bison while in town or out in the surrounding wilderness.

Banked snow as tall as a grown man, dwarf two children.

Banked snow as tall as a grown man, dwarf two children.

At the Cooke City Visitor’s Center, we picked up maps for Yellowstone and were told it would be unlikely we would see any bears . . . they only come out in the early morning and at dusk when foraging for food.

Silver Gate

Blink and you’ll miss it. Silver Gate is a tiny town located one mile from Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance. It has one stop sign, eight full-time residents, a restaurant, a couple of motels, a rustic lodge, some rental cabins, and a general store. Elevation is 7,480 feet with peaks towering above at over 10,000 feet. Soda Butt Creek, with plentiful trout, runs through the town. The ancient Bannock Indian Trail is within close proximity.

Silver Gate, WY.

A good place to stop . . . or stay
You can get grizzly-blend Montana-roasted coffee, among other things, at the general store in Silver Gate. Front porch of this cabin provides a comfortable place to sit. Cozy interior with 2 queens, kitchen, and bathroom. View of snow-capped Amphitheater Mountain.

Silver Gate Lodging has a general store and 29 cozy cabins, making it a perfect place to stop for last minute picnic or hiking supplies . . . or, if you need a place to stay while visiting Yellowstone, it makes a great home base. It’s all about location location location. One mile from Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance, away from the crowds, surrounded by majestic mountains and pristine wilderness, you couldn’t ask for anything more serene and convenient.
(Photos: Silver Gate Lodging)

Yellowstone National Park

At last . . .

A sight for celebration.

A sight for celebration.

. . . and the road was open.

PREVIOUS: Cody to Yellowstone
NEXT: An Afternoon in Yellowstone
Unless noted otherwise, photos were taken by Patricia Petro and Tom Schmidt.
Copyright © 2011 Patricia Petro/Tom Schmidt. All rights reserved.

Maps and some photos were found online. Links to the source sites have been provided. I encourage you to visit these sites to read what others have to say.
America’s Byways | Cooke City Chamber of Commerce | Brett DeWoody | Elfino 57 | Knight Adventures | Ladybug’s Lair | The New World Mining District | Nez Perce Campaign | Chris Sanfino | Emily Sharp | Shoshone National Forest: Campground List | Silver Gate Lodging | Jon Vermilye | Wyoming Tourism | Dan Zachariah

Artwork: “Chief Joseph” by Paul Shafranski, pen and ink, 2013.

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Comments

  1. Juanita Bainter says

    Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 10:28 AM

    Hi, I am reading your journal about your Cody, Yellowstone trip. It is the most enjoyable thing I’ve ever read and is immensely helpful for planning our upcoming trip, in about a month, to the same area. It is great to read a first-hand diary of the very roads we are hoping to take. We are in our mid 60’s, and this is our first trip to The Rockies. Tell me, will we have trouble breathing since the air is thinner? We are in reasonable good health. I’d love to talk to you more, but I plan on reading more of your empty nest. Even though these entries appear to be 5 years old, I find it very enjoyable; and my husband and I sat beside each other and looked at your wonderful pictures. Thank you so much. Sincerely, Juanita Bainter

    Reply
    • Patricia says

      Saturday, August 13, 2016 at 8:34 AM

      Hi Juanita,

      Thanks for writing. It’s nice to know the tales of our trip to Wyoming are giving you and your husband some idea of what to expect. The Rockies are breathtakingly beautiful and awe-inspiring. Standing on the tallest ridge there is nothing but peace and quiet and fresh air . . . and mountains as far as the eye can see in all directions. It was truly amazing and unforgettable. The air is thinner, but you shouldn’t have any breathing issues. We didn’t. We loved it so much, we plan to go back–travel up through Jackson Hole and the Tetons into Yellowstone via the South Entrance and stay in the park for at least 10 days.

      Have a safe and happy trip. I hope you enjoy yourself as much as we did.

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Patricia and TomHi there! Tom and I are two empty nesters who decided to downsize and simplify our lives—lose the clutter and drama, travel a little, laugh a lot, sit back, and enjoy the simple pleasures life has to offer. Read more

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